Impressions of Yangshuo

Many of the baby boomers like me who grew up in the sixties have heard the songs of Liu Sanjie. She is the most popular legend who lived amongst the common folks in Yangshuo about 800 years ago. Born in Liuzhou, she is a gifted fearless folk singer whose songs often chastised the greedy landlords. Because of that, she had to move to Yangshuo for her safety. Whilst there, she continues to sing against injustice and without doubt is much loved by the farmers. Her mythical tale was immortalised in a movie "Liu Sanjie" in 1961. This movie popularised not only the tales and songs of Liu Sanjie, it also highlighted the beautiful mountains of Yangshuo and the picturesque Li River to the world. That picture at the back of the 20 Yuan had become the most iconic landscape scene in China. I had heard Liu Sanjie during my childhood days in my hometown. My parents and grandparents used to listen to her songs each time it played over the radio. Today, my siblings and I would recognise those songs anywhere, anytime. My recent trip to Yangshuo helped rekindle old memories of those haunting mountain songs. If I had not understood the story then, I do now. In a way, Liu Sanjie is the Asian version of Sound of Music that reflects sentiments of the farmers during the time.

I had chosen Yangshuo for my family vacation this time not because of Liu Sanjie, but was drawn in by the captivating chinese mountains and the enchanting Li River. Moreover, the Impression show by Zhang Yimou is a must see for me after seeing Impressions of Lijiang five months earlier during my visit there. Impressions of Liu Sanjie had all the trademark of Zhang Yimou. It had a cast of 600 locals, the extravagance of stage on the Li River against the backdrop of the famous Yangshuo mountains and the fantastic light show that turns the entire open stage into a fairyland. It evoked in me to watch the 1961 movie which I had never seen in my childhood days. Below are my account of the very short visit from 26.12.13 to 30.12.13.

Day 1 : 26.12.13, Waking up in the ungodly hours.

There is only one direct flight Guilin, and Air Asia's willingness to fly direct to some of the most remote destination is godsend. But on the flip side, it can choose to fly as early as 5.50 am and that means you wake up at the ungodly hour of 2.30 am to be at the airport at least 2 hours ahead of flight time. I had decided to drive myself and pay for the parking for 5 days at the parking lot. As usual, even at this hour, the LCCT is like a bus terminal, always packed with the motley crowd. The plane departed on time and arrive 10 minutes ahead of schedule. This is the only plane that arrives Guilin that morning and it's the first time in my travel that I witness the immigration counters are still not opened. After a half hour wait and another 10 minutes getting the computer system started, we were checked through. All the luggages were lying on the belt ready to be collected. My pre-arranged driver from the hotel was there holding my name on the placard. In no time, we were on the highway in his 7 seater and by 11.45 am, we arrived in Yangshuo Village Retreat. The weather is a nice cool 12 degree. Ms. Flower, the receptionist greeted us and efficiently checked us in. It was love at first sight for my family when they stepped into the room. The resort is run by Gerd from Belgium who fell in love with Yangshuo and decided to stay here with his chinese wife. Our room is anything but chinese and we like the charm and cosy feel of the place. It was a good time to catch a nap.

I always make it a point to photograph all my luggage bags that was checked in. 

Waiting time.

It's a 4 hour flight.

 Bags are already at the conveyor by the time we got there.

 Happy that all our bags arrived safely.

 Outside the airport.

 It's a small airport with few international flights.

 Our MPV, can't remember which chinese brand.

 Ready to go.

 Gives you an idea what to expect.

Another Xanadu here??? Curiosity got the better of me. The one I know is old Shangdu, not here. 

 It's mountain all the way.

Time for a nap, mountain or not!

 Yangshuo Village Retreat

We love this charming "cottage like" room.

 The master room.

 The 2nd room opens to a small balcony.

 Washroom.

 Nice European design bathtub.

 Functional shower room.

More Swiss than Chinese design.

 Outside the main entrance.

Callum couldn't resist kicking the ball around. Our room is the wooden structure on the first floor behind Callum.

Valen showing off his skill.

 It's nice and cold outside.

Good to have body warm in cold weather.

Yvonne wanted a quick look at the town. We took the hotel shuttle which drop us at Xi Jie, the popular West Street. The entire shopping and international food fare are all within this 1 km stretched with few streets. Immediately Yvonne bought a pair of shoes with fur to keep the feet warm. There's quite a bit to buy, especially the souvenir stuff and we make some purchases for family and friends back home.

 Where the shuttle dropped us.

 Brothers enjoys the cold weather.

 We first noticed a group of ladies gambling in the open.

 At one end of Xi Jie.

 Then we saw another gambling group.

 I thought only Malaysians longed for their own food when abroad.

 Xi Jie caters towards international tourist.

 The stream that runs alongside Xi Jie.

 Local food outlet.

 Link bridge within West Street.

Helpful local showing us around. 

 You won't go hungry here.

 Valen toying with one of the animal design headwear.

 Locals doing knitting out in the cold.

 Why are we sitting here ?

 To wait for mummy finish her shopping.

 Wearing the shoe immediately after purchase. Waving off eager vendors.

 Bargaining with the vendor for purchases in bulk.

 She welcome us to her house just next to her stall.

 The house is also her warehouse.

 Inside the courtyard.

 Chinese playing cards

 ...which is a much bigger version than what we had back home. Good for old folks. 

 The table playing the game nearby called us over and watch how it is played. It's the same the way we played it. We bought a few packs to take home for CNY. My mum would love it.

 Callum walking about.

 Callum walks like Gangnam style.

 Another gambling group. It does not seem like gambling as there are no cash being traded, more like a pastime

 Outside Xi Jie along the main road.

At the bridge on main street.

Fruits are juicy and cheap.

Enjoying the cool air outside the resort over a cup of cappuccino.

One of the highlight of the trip was to enjoy the Impression of Liu Sanjie show.. I had arranged for the resort to reserve our tickets for four VIP seats at 238 Yuan per person. The shuttle picked us up at 6.30 am and drove us to the open air stage along the Li River. The 70 minutes show starts at 7.30 am and had a cast 600 local actors and actresses. It certainly lives up to all the hype and leaves a lasting impression.

 The show opens with a grand spectacle, mountain, river and fishing boats.

 Lighting up the night....

 ..local folks doing the opening gambit

 The red theme..

 Fishermen doing the waves using large red cloth ( presumably plastic )

while on small boats.

Love is in the air even during ancient times.

 Reflecting the local country life.

 Beautiful maiden bathing in the river. Acting out the notes from Liu Sanjie's songs.

A cast of 200 Zhuang girls in silvery attired lightings makes the river crossing

It's a spectacular sight and makes the river glimmers from the changing lights on their costume. 

 Fairy dancing on the crescent....

 and maiden bathing in the river as in Liu Sanjie's songs.

 Village scene during the times of  Liu Sanjie

 Liu Sanjie's Impression shows are shown nightly since it's creation in 2006. It had been seen by audiences who came from all over the world. It has to-date hosted  the show for more than 10 million people. Many came away impressed even though they did not know the local legend, Liu Sanjie, particular the western audience. For me, this one is better than the Lijiang Impression in that it is staged over the famous Li river, and the light show over the Yangshuo mountains is simply more spectacular than the solitary Snow Dragon Mountain in Lijiang. The inspiration of the legendary Liu Sanjie is a plus point as the Lijiang show did not have the myth and legend that is close to the people's heart. It depends solely on culture. If you are in Yangshuo, this show is a must. I am glad I took the VIP seat and was able to enjoy the show in relative comfort.

Day 2 : 27.12.13, Rafting down the Yulong River.

It was a long day yesterday, 2 hours at LCCT, 4 hours flight, 2 hours journey to Yangshuo, 3 hours in town, 2 hours total at the Impression shows, 1 hour at Xi Jie for our dinner and only 3 hours of sleep the night before. The room is cosy and nice and we slept until 11.00 am. By the time we freshen up, it was lunch time. We took our lunch at the resort and arranged for the shuttle to take us down to Baisha village. This village is 600 years old and it's here we hired two bamboo raft for a 1 1/2 hour rafting down the Yulong River. The name Yulong means "meeting the dragon". That's why I love China, every place have it's myth and legends and dragon is always featured. The story is that the dragon from the East Sea strolled across the Yulong River and was so impressed by the mountain landscape that it decided to stay here forever. The villagers living along the river bank had seen it several times that's why they named the river Yulong. There you have it, "meet the dragon" river. Believe me, dragon was the furthest thing in our mind when we drifted down the river. We were here to enjoy the beautiful mountains, peaceful surroundings amidst nature, and it's cold air. The temperature is at 6 degree today. What a bliss. At every kilometre or so, there are man made rapids across the river which causes the raft to dip and splash and have some fun on the water. These were constructed some 600 years ago.Obviously, it was notconstructed for tourism when the weirs were made during that time. Yulong is prone to flooding and these breakwaters are meant to alter the flow of the water to make it more navigable and less volatile. During low tide, it enables farmers and their animals to cross the river. This time of the year is low season for tourism and we were literally having the whole Yulong to ourselves and enjoying the blissful river ride. Just when we were beginning to feel the chill,our rafting ends at one of the exit point. Our driver was already there waiting to pick us up. Instead of sending us back to the resort, we told her to drop us off at Xi Jie as we want to have a stroll at the tourist street again.

 House at Baisha village

 Walking through the village.

 Small kids relaxing on the raft by the quayside.

 600 years old village.

 Village sustenance is on tourism today.

The tourists.

 Treading the path where villagers had lived for 6 centuries.

 Drying fish using the natural dry cool air.

the same with chinese sausages.

 Yvonne at the quayside.

Off we go, rafting down the Yulong river.

 The boatman pointed to us the mountain has the shape of a bat.

 We are in paradise.

 Now you know why the dragon likes this place and decides to stay here forever.

 We passed the first of the five rapids.

 No imposing building to obscure the natural beauty.

 Some souvenir stalls and drink hut on the water.

 They enjoy the cold air more than anything else.

 We enjoy the ride and everything else.

 We can be like the dragon and stay here forever.

 Eco tourism at it's best.

 Going through the breakwater.

 One of the five weirs that we crossed.

 Satisfied at the end of the ride.

The rafts are transferred upstream again by a lorry.

 After the ride, we told the driver to drop us at West Street.

 We now have more time on our hands.

 Strolling around Xi Jie.

 It's nice with the cold weather.

 Valen sure enjoys it.

 Identity crisis, oriental or occidental ?

 Shopping for some chinese clothes for the upcoming Chinese New Year.

 This is West Street, Yangshuo.

 It's a favourite pastime.

 Weavers at work.

 Unique decor at entrance.

 Family photo is a must.

 Outside the main street.

 Gives you an idea how cold it is. It's 6 degree today.

 Facing Li River, there is a nice coffee outlet that proclaims to make the best coffee in Yangshuo.

 The hazelnut cappuccino does taste good, better than many coffee I have tried. 

 Nice and cosy interior.

It's a good respite from the cold outside.

 Very homely feel.

 Shop for the rock climbers.

 Fanciful bars.

 We bought some souvenir T shirts here.

 We like this restaurant as the rice is special, it is semi glutinous indigenious rice.

 We had a good meal here.

 Outside at the corner, this lady sells chop chillis.

 While waiting for our shuttle, Callum and Valen doing their Wing Chun antics.

 Sticky hands move.

 One quick sudden forward push and down he goes...

 Yes, that's the Karate Kid move.

Day 3 : 28.12.13, Cruising the magnificent Li River on an open raft.

Again, we had such good sleep in our nice cosy room and was almost reluctant to leave. The temperature this morning is down to 2 degree and when the wind blows, you could feel the chill. We took our time during brunch and had decided to travel to Guilin partly by road and partly via the Li River. The plan is to get our van take us to Xingping by road and from there we will continue the journey to Yangdi on a motorised raft. Our driver will pick us up at Yangdi and drive us to our next abode in Guilin. We had decided not to take the big cruise boat which will start from Yangshuo which takes about 4 hours to reach Yangdi and sticks to scheduled time. We prefer the flexibility of the smaller raft which also makes you feel at one with nature. The 25 km stretch between Xingping and Yangdi is also the most scenic section of the river. We left our resort at about 11.00 am. The drive to Xingping is through small country road which partly have been concreted but narrow. The journey took us back to the Yangshuo Bridge to cross the other side of the Li River. The road took about 1 1/2 hours and we passed through a number of villages. Xingping is the starting point of our boat ride. It's famous for the scenic picture at the back of the Chinese 20 Yuan. As you descend to the quay, right in front of the quay is the exact scenery that was embodied in that 20 Yuan. It is also the exact landscape that had stood over time, perhaps for a few hundred years. In my mind, I had come to see the most beautiful Chinese mountains and was overawed by what I saw. It is the most beautiful Chinese mountains as what I imagined it to be, with only one difference. The picture of the idyllic fishing boat is now replaced by tourist raft that I had just hired. Excitement gets into you when trying to envisage what lies beyond this point. Our raft is made of a few modified plastic pipe bounded together with a simple outboard engine and a long propeller. It has a roof and 2 wooden seater that seats four person. This is exactly what we wanted, an open boat.  As the raft began moving out, I continue to click away with my small Canon camera and iphone. I just have to make sure the scene is preserved in my personal album.

 I really hate to wake him up from his sweet slumber.

 Waiting for the boys to wash up.

 Michelle, the receptionist took this photo for us.

She insisted on taking a picture of  us with our room at the background. I told her there's nothing chinese in appearance of that building.

 The van is always on time.

 Loading our three big bags.

One for the road.

 Arrival at Xingping.

 Some stalls on the way to the quayside.

 There, that's the scene right in front of you. Familiar ?

 Boarding the raft.

Only in China are these makeshift raft allowed to operate.

 The water is shallow most of the way.

 I did not look at the bill before I took this picture. I should have.

 The only difference is the idyllic fisherman with the straw hat on a fishing boat. That's a picture in the past. The present day craft on the river are the makeshift motorised boats ferrying camera toting tourist like me. You must praised the chinese government for keeping the environment green and maintaining it despite the strong lure of tourist dollar. The landscape did not change for at least a few hundred years! If this scene were to be in Malaysia, I could see host of condominium right in front of the mountains all the way to the river bank and all owned by a few Malaysian feudal lords. 

I had asked the boatman to take us across the river to the sandbank where we could alight and take some photo of this eternal view. He is happy to oblige.

After about 10 minutes, we were off again to start our boat ride to Yangdi. It will pass by some of the most magnificent mountains in the world. If only they could play all the Liu Sanjie's songs, it would send your imagination back to her time while on the boat.

 The river is not crowded at this time of the year, and we love it that way.

 We were wearing at least 4 layers but the exposed part is still cold, especially with the wind blowing on your face.

The big cruise boat that we prefer not to take.

 The splendour of the mountains along the Li River

 I'm sure there are many animals shape within these mountains, but our boatman is not a tour guide to tell us that.

 Another big boat passes us by on the opposite direction.

 Souvenir stalls along the river bank.

 The river and the mountains

 No modern structures to spoil the natural beauty.

 The water on the river is clear and clean. You can just drink it raw.

 Let your mind wonder a bit.

 The river zig zag all the way through the mountains.

 Yes, it is that cold after some time on the boat.

 You could hear Liu Sanjie's songs echo among the hills.

 Painters haven.

 Don't let you mind wonder too far in trying to determine what shape this resembles.

The hills are alive. This is another spot in Liu Sanjie's movie. It is exactly the same as it was in 1961.

 An old fisherman with his catch. Doing it the traditional way.

 Living off the land in the 21st century.

 The pier at Yangdi. The boat ride takes 1 1/2 hours.

 Village produce, BBQ sweet potato and taro. As natural as can be.

Our driver was already waiting there to pick us up. Immediately, she heads out of Yangdi passing through some villages before hitting the highway onwards to Guilin. We reached Guilin at about 3.00 pm and by the time we checked into Lijiang Waterfall Hotel, it was about 3.45 pm. This is a local hotel, 5 star by China standard but at the most 4 star internationally. It is ideally located within the tourist belt. Right in front is the Fir Lake with the Sun and Moon Pagoda, Seven Star park that houses all the attraction, the Elephant Hill, Camel Hill etc..At the left hand side of the hotel is a long stretch of pedestrian mall with all kinds of shops for the tourist. At the back is a big square surrounded by more shops that sells almost anything a tourist would look for. Because it is winter season now, cold wear and apparels for winter are on sale almost at every shop and every stalls. This is the most ideal location for any tourist. Our intention was to visit the Longji terrace the next day but we abandon it on the advise of the hotel concierge who says that it is quite drab looking at this time of the year as the rice are all harvested leaving only bare earth. We could be disappointed if we take the two hour journey and see something below expectation, was the advise.  So we decided to spend the time enjoying the local fares and mingling with all the tourists that crowd around this area.

Day 4 : 29.12.13, A day in the city of Guilin.

I did not sleep well last night. The hotel did not power up the air conditioning during winter. My room faces inwards and could not get the cool air from the outside and was stuffy even though the temperature is 2 degree outside. First thing in the morning, I requested for a room change to those facing outwards so that the cool air can flow into the room. They met my request without hesitation and apologised for the inconvenience. Good service staff, bad management policy in turning down air conditioning during winter.

 We later took a stroll to the mall nearby and have brunch at one of the small noodle shop. We tried their rice noodles with dumplings and it was just average. After that, we had coffee at one of the corner coffee outlet called Amani Cafe. It's nice to enjoy coffee al fresco on cool weather. Later we took a walk around Fir Lake, took some photographs, walk along the Guilin Scenic Park but decided not  to go in. They charge 75 yuan per person just to enter the park. Once in, every attraction like Elephant Hill, Fubo Hill, Camel Hill, there are extra charges like 60 to 80 yuan per person for every attraction. All in, you would have to pay more than 300 yuan per person if you wish to see everything in the park! That's outrages and the most ridiculous thing is the "auntie tour guides" outside the gate offering to take you in for 20 yuan per person ! It's a real turn off and a rip off. Anyway, there is much to see and do around the malls. Callum went back to his room and the three of us continue strolling around the pedestrian mall. At 6.00 pm, it gets dark and we went to the Fir Lake to take the picture of Sun Moon Pagoda by night. After that, we had dinner at Li River Cuisine Restaurant nearby. The restaurant is big and crowded because they serve good food at reasonable pricing. It's a big restaurant, much like one of our Imperial Restaurant size and standard but with the pricing of our average shop restaurant.

 At the pedestrian mall beside our hotel.

At Amani Cafe after brunch.

 Nice to have coffee al fresco in cool weather.

 It's still early and most shops are not open yet.

Walking towards Guilin Scenic Park.

 Creative handle bar with gloves attached for winter season.

 Nice leisurely stroll.

 At the entrance of Guilin Scenic park.

 Sign of CNY

 At Fir Lake

The Sun and Moon Pagoda are the focal point around the lake.

Nice day for a stroll. Temperature is 7 degree.

 This point allows you to be in between the pagoda.

 Handicap calligrapher at work.

 The crowds are strolling in.

I handed some notes for this handicap street singer.

 Back to the street mall.

 Evening at the street mall.

Crowds are more evident.

 At one end of the street.

 Nice flowers.

 We had to come back to view the Pagoda by night.

It's beautiful by night when it's lighted up.

 At the back of the hotel wall, there's a nightly waterfall show that starts at 8.30 pm.

The water will cascade down the hotel wall in sync with the music.

 We went back to the Li River Cuisine because it serves good food.

 This time we ordered different menu.

 One of the popular local dish is rice noodle. We found out it is Char Koay Teow without "sea hum".

 The lighted trees in front of the hotel

The hotel facade at night.

Day 5 : 30.12.13, End of holiday, end of the year.

Our holiday ends today and the year ends in another two days time. It is always good to recharge ourselves with a good holiday and look forward to the new year with renewed vigour.

We leave the hotel at 8.00 am and arrives at the airport at 8.40 am to catch our 10.40 flight. At the airport, the immigration is still not opened until 9.10 am! This is the only international flight out and so you really do not need to check in 2 hours ahead. It's a small airport with not many shops as you would see in all other busy airport. Our flight took off on schedule and again arrives 10 minutes ahead of time. At the LCCT, there are so many flights coming in and large crowds are everywhere. The queue for foreigners at the immigration is the longest I've ever seen. Even at the conveyor belt, the trolleys are all taken up with large crowds waiting for their bags. I'm glad that I had my car parked outside as I would have hated to wait for the taxis that may not be enough to cope with the crowd. The 5 days fare of RM195.00 is worth it for me and my family. We were out of the airport in no time and reached home in 45 minutes.

 Waiting for our flight at Guilin airport.

 It's the only flight out this morning.

 This airport probably only serves these countries aside from Air Asia.

ipad, iphones, your own inflight entertainment.

 At LCCT immigration. The foreigners crowd are the largest I've seen at LCCT.

 The Malaysian queue is less and efficient.

 We choose to use the immigration manned counter.

 Belt 3 has luggages from three flight that came in from Guangzhou, Surabaya and Guilin.

 All the trolleys have been "zapped" up.

Big crowds waiting for their luggage.

Our holiday is over. Even though it is short, the time spent with the family in a foreign place is always uplifting. The places that we read or heard about comes full circle when you are there to experience it yourself. It is because of limited time to spend a vacation with your family that makes you treasure each holiday. As for me, a good vacation is a place where my family can enjoy and a place where my mind, body and soul can wander a bit. That's why fables and folklores provide intrigues to the place which takes your holiday beyond the physical form. Liu Sanjie had left a big impression on me even though what attracted me to this place was the Yangshuo mountains and the Li River. It is a holiday I enjoyed beyond expectation.